Diving into Watery Notes
Taking note of what inspires us…
You hear a lot about “aquatic fragrances” this time of year but what does that actually mean?
It’s the height of the summer and those most fortunate who have access to the seaside, ocean, lake (or even a kiddy pool) can get a good whiff of cool, watery scents. Whether they’re briny or soft, aquatic notes are varied but are equally employed to create many modern perfumes.
ph. Shifaaz shamoon
One of my first experiences actually considering aquatic notes was while living in Southern California and hearing about the “marine layer” — that annoying morning layer of damp, fog-like overcast that would inevitably “burn off” somewhere around 11am. Locals know to just wait it out as it dissipates and you go along planning your sunny beach day. The marine layer doesn’t only lay along the coastline in the morning hours. You could also feel it’s cool dampness pressing against your skin and in your nose with a pinch of marine saltiness, sometimes a slightly dank brine, but ultimately brightened by cooler aromatics and green notes like cypress, sagebrush, and citrus from surrounding hillsides.
In perfumery, aquatic notes are relatively new and became popular only at the end of last century. The first “watery” note was Calone and was created in the early 50’s not for fragrances but for flavoring when trying to achieve a melon-like wateriness. Instead of the original intent, it gave off a salty, mineral note much like sea spray or algae. Many years went by before it was introduced into fragrance for a coastal facet and it took a few more years to bring a stylistic revolution to the fragrance industry.
More “offsprings” of Calone were created like azurone, florlalozone, and algenone, to name a few, to enrich the perfumers’ toolbox and help create oceanic facets for the massively growing popularity of “fresh scents” with consumers. Beyond the nuanced molecules formulated in the labs, certain naturals also accentuate the perception of dampness and brine in aquatic accords such as lotus, algae, and oak moss. Aromatics such as rosemary, mint, and eucalyptus play their part as well to add a dynamic texture and to open up watery accords.
Coastal fragrances that adopt a marine ozonic (atmospheric) and aquatic character are proven to be universally liked across consumer gender spectrums. Who doesn’t love the smell of fresh sea air and all of the memories it may conjure? Waves lapping the beach, tree leaves and coastal reeds rustling in the breeze, sun-filled days that, for many, are reminiscent of a lazy summer break from school. Or, likewise, the cool, softness you feel with water droplets on your skin and the scent of Spring’s first rain. It’s a soothing, dreamy feeling for the collective imagination – a balm for the soul.
